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Top ten pre-season classics

Global warming is not the only thing playing havoc with our seasons - fashion is too. Once upon a time shopping for anything other than a bikini in July was impossible. Now, thanks to the phenomena of 'pre' collections, shops no longer resemble the Mary Celeste at this time of year.

Ever since the July summer sales shifted to June, the high-end clothing market has been working on a strategy to entice the sort of wealthy customer who might otherwise spend July twiddling her thumbs waiting for the mainline range to arrive in August.

What are the pre-fall and resort/cruise collections?

Thanks to the success of pre-collections, or 'pre-colls', which give a diluted taster of the new season in easy to wear pieces, we are all changing the way we shop to suit a pattern once reserved for globetrotting fashionista-types.

"Today's international and multi-tasking lifestyles means that the traditional 'seasons' don't really hold any value for customers," explains Patrick Couderc, UK managing director of the Herve Leger by Max Azria boutique in London. "Pre-collections reflect that in their versatility, and their ability to easily blend in to your wardrobe."

Resort 2012 collections in pictures

"Pre-collections have evolved to become a formidable area of the business," agrees Averyl Oates, the esteemed buying director of Harvey Nichols, who puts it down to their 'buy-it-and-wear-it-now' option. Ruth Runberg, buying director of the London boutique, Browns, believes you can be the success of the pre-collection down to our very modern need for "instant gratification. Customers are less willing to wait. If a piece proves irresistible, even the heaviest coat will sell in the dead of summer."

So who buys pre-colls? Yvan Mispelaere - the Frenchman at the helm of Diane von Furstenberg, one of the standout pre-collections of the moment - believes their appeal stretches far wider than the stressed-out executive or bored, rich housewife.

"Pre-Fall is indeed for a woman on-the-go who travels a lot. But it's also about the balance of practical and glamour - it is absolutely not 'just' a "pre-collection" but a real collection with a strong identity. As Diane often says, 'When you open your closet, you have to feel that your clothes are your best friends.'"

"The importance of pre-collections took off just prior to the recession," says Browns' Ruth Runberg. "There was a demand for luxury-price products in very commercial, easily digestible styles. Post-recession, pre-collections offer more wearable, lower-priced products and, for those reasons, have become big business."

"Catwalk shows provide the brand with its dynamic aesthetic and creativity," agrees Harvey Nichols' Averyl Oates. "This leaves pre-colls to demonstrate how individual pieces can be worked into an everyday wardrobe."

Here's our compilation of the top ten pieces Pre-Fall pieces that should be in yours.

Top ten hot pre-season pieces

1. Midi skirt
The longer length skirt kicks off the the most important trend of the season This either has a nipped in 'hobble' feel evocative of the Forties, or is high-waisted and flares out Seventies style. Watch out for pleats, which can be unforgiving. Fenwick are eagerly awaiting delivery of a Paul Smith floral style, whereas Harvey Nichols are touting a canary yellow knife-pleat midi by Chloe as a possible best seller.

How to wear : Team with a loose silk blouse or cropped leather jacket; clumpy ankle boots and bare tanned legs.

2. Caped outdoor jacket
An update on the trench - having a cape on your jacket, coat or see-through 'pac-a-mac' shows the world that you know what's hot. Diane von Furstenberg has some stunning lightweight pieces that work as an alternative to a coat and have the required slouchy feel. Many caped jackets have an equestrian-vibe but come in glamorous colours like saffron or eggplant to stop them looking like a Barbour.

How to wear : Layered over jeans and a loosely fitted long sleeve t-shirt (James Perse has a perfect one for such a task) or over a midi skirt and 'flatforms'.

3. Curvy dress
The return of the clingy herve leger dress is imminent, with or without sleeves and not just for eveningwear. Azzedine Alaia is back on the fashion radar bringing with him a new curvy mood. Herve Leger Pre-Fallarrivals include the famous bandage dress, with a much longer length than "Footballers Wives" might approve of, in shades of icy blue, silvery grey and black.

How to wear : Under neatly tailored jackets or tasselled 'coatigans' (coat/cardigan hybrid), with glossy bare tanned legs and ankle boots with the new 'nail' killer heel.

4. Blazer
To compliment the new length longer skirt, your boyish blazer should be nipped in slightly to give you the required waspish waist, possibly with rounded sleeves too. Holli Rogers, Buying Director of Net-A Porter, hotly tips Stella McCartney's burgundy blazer and camel styles by The Row, designed by those trail-blazing Olsen twins.

How to wear : Look out for mid-priced ranges by American brand, Eileen Fisher, at Fenwick and fashion chains offering lighter weight 'power jackets' designed to be teamed with curvier skirts.

5. Leather

A leather (or pleather) bomber in a vivid jewel colour - amethyst, garnet, emerald, topaz - will instantly pull your wardrobe into shape. Leather trousers, pencil skirts, boxy t-shirts, shorts and sleek cut curvy dresses are winners too. There's a Sixties 'Avengers' Mod feel to a lot of the styles. Acne's pre-collection is a winner if you can afford to invest in any leather piece.

How to wear : Stop glossy and shiny patent leathers from looking too wintry by wearing sandals or shorts.

6. Trousers
High-waisted flares and "carrot tops" (that's trousers shaped like carrots) are taking over from skinny drainpipes, the latter being updated this season with a tunic. Holli Rogers believes Seventies high waisted flares such as Gucci's grey velvet-corduroy flares, which are currently one of Net A Porter's best sellers, are a perfect bridge to take you from summer to autumn.

How to wear : Trouser styles that taper and show a hint of tanned ankle can look very sexy worn with cropped tailored bomber jackets and silk shirts, worn tucked in or out. Update flares with a 'matchy matchy' style by wearing tops in the same colour.

7. Cocoon knit or coat
Ease yourself into the cocoon shape of Autumn/Winter 2011/12 with a coatigan or egg-shaped fealty jacket. Great for travelling (particularly air travel), in a shade of saffron or jewel red this can really jazz up wide leg trousers and stops a pencil skirt looking too retro.

How to wear : Lengthen the silhouette with something slimming like cropped drainpipes, high-waisted white jeans or a midi skirt.

8. Flat or heeled loafers
Bye bye brogues. The androgynous penny loafer with the snaffle is poised to become ubiquitous come September - although some kind designers (Acne) have given it a wedge and in some cases a heel (Marni). Mid-priced fashion-forward boutiques like Zadig and Voltaire offer some great styles. Look out for Topshop's velvet loafers with or without a heel.

How to wear : With a trouser that stops just short of the ankle. Also with shorts and midi skirts.

9. Equestrian-feel trench or parka
Heritage feels hip again: Harvey Nichols buyer, Averyl Oates, picks Celine's tan trench coat with its plaid lapels as one of her favourite pre-collection pieces. Go for styles that evoke the ladylike 'Park Avenue' vibe rather than the Sloane Ranger. An alternative is the parka, which has had an urban makeover thanks to popularity of quilted styles. Thakoon, one of Anna Wintour's favourite rising fashion stars, has done one in his pre-collection.

How to wear : Open and layered over tailored 'Townie' pieces, like a Alexander Wang midi pencil skirt and lace up boots. But the look should say 'high fashion' - not festival-chic.

10. Printed day dress
The long-sleeved silk shirtwaister, Sixties shift or Diane Von Furstenberg wraparound is a great transitional wardrobe favourite. DVF creative director, Yvan Mispelaere was inspired by American artists Edward Hopper and Alex Katz for his current American sportswear-feel dresses. Celine's pink long-sleeved pleated skirt dress was a favourite with Browns buying director, Ruth Runberg, along with Christopher Kane's short-lace bodice dresses. Harvey Nichols buyer, Averyl Oates picks a Proenza Schouler patterned silk shirt dress.

How to wear : With chunky heeled sandals, a statement necklace and hard-structure Seventies-feel handbag like the DVF 'Harper' handbag which comes in a wonderful eggplant colour. It's reassuringly expensive - and has a certain Miss Beckham's name on it we feel.

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